I slept like a drunk college student – soundly, and for many hours. I would say I slept like a baby, but as I learned first hand in Ann Arbor, this phrase is very misleading. Upon waking up, Hunter prepared us a delicious breakfast and we planned our day together. I wanted to explore our surroundings, and it was a perfect day to do so. The weather was hot and sunny with clear skies and a slight breeze – making it impossible to stay indoors.

Our apartment is located on Nisim Bachar, a street in the neighborhood of Nachlaot near downtown Jerusalem. Nachlaot is one of the central neighborhoods in modern Jerusalem, within walking distance to the old city and on several major bus lines as well as the #1 train line. Nachlaot was one of the areas established for residence outside of the Old City in the mid 1800s, back when the old city was becoming too unsanitary and crowded. Nachlaot is characterized by many small streets, some only the width of a staircase, which wind throughout the neighborhood creating small inner courtyards and crossroads between the “main” streets – which themselves are only wide enough for one car at a time with “Israeli” parking (aka half on the street, half on the sidewalk).

In today’s time, Nachlaot is a hip and popular living spot – similar to the East Village or Williamsburg in NYC. Historically, Nachlaot had the highest concentration of synagogues in the entire city, and today the religious presence is felt, although the old school jews seem to be a diminishing minority. The crowds moving into the ramshackle apartments are a different sort of Jew. Still religious and observant of religious rituals, but with a hippy vibe similar to individuals found in the Bay Area.

Nisim Bachar is a 5 minute walk from “the Shuk,” a popular spot for both locals and tourists alike. The shuk is an indoor/outdoor market selling fruits, vegetables, fish, nuts, olives, pastries, pasta and tahini 101 different ways. It’s loud, crowded and spectacular. Hunter informs me that this is where we will be buying most of our groceries. Challenge accepted.

After ambling around our neighborhood and the shuk, we head to Jaffa street. Jaffa street is closed off to cars because it has the only train line in the city – a tram called the #1 line. For under 2 USD the tram takes you from west to east within the city of Jerusalem. Rumor has it that #1 won’t be alone for too long – a #2 is planned for the “near” future. Sounds to me like the 2nd avenue subway line, but maybe I’m just cynical. Instead of taking the tram we walked the length of Jaffa street to the old city walls, finding many clothing and shoe stores along with way. Also, a Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf (note to self), and a store called “Holy Bagel” which made me laugh – I’ll always be impressed by a good pun, even more when written in English outside of the U.S. I will always be impressed, as well, by a delicious bagel. See you soon Holy Bagel.