Twenty minutes of walking brought us to the Old City gates. We walked in the “New Gate,” and strolled through the Christian quarter. Wait, is that a kippah for sale? Yeah, and that’s a store of Jewish paraphernalia. I guess we’re in the Jewish quarter. But — hey — that’s a store of crosses! I supposed we actually are in the Christian quart —well look at that. Signs saying “Visit Palestine” and posters with Arabic writing. Is this the Muslim quarter?

“Hunter, should I put my scarf on?” I had dressed for the weather in a tank top, and didn’t want to be disrespectful.

“Let me ask this guy” Hunter responded, equally confused by the intermixed shops. He approached a man on a pile of small rugs, and spoke to him in (broken) Arabic.

The man smiled and said “Jewish, Christian, Muslim, it is all the same.”

Quite profound considering we were walking within the city walls that contained some of the holiest relics of three major world religions. Also very surprising due to the constant stories of conflict and animosity between these religions and their followers.

We continued walking, perused the shops, drank fresh pomegranate juice and happened upon the entrance to the Al Aqsa Mosque. Here, two Israeli soldiers ate sandwiches leaning against the wall. We were told that at this time it is for Muslims only. The soldiers informed us that the Mosque would be open tomorrow from 7 – 11 am, and from 1:30 – 2:30 pm. He noted that we needed to dress conservatively, and I needed to cover my legs and arms from my ankles to my wrists. In addition I would need a scarf around my head. He also asked us why we are in Israel, and we carried on a pleasant, although slightly strained conversation. He asked our religions, and then, perhaps going beyond sheer pleasantries, asked what the policy is for Protestants – do the children take the religion of the father or the mother. Hunter responded they become the religion of the father.

“So if the children are to be the religion of the mother, and the religion of the father, what will they be?” The soldier, still a complete stranger, asked.

At this point I was ready for the conversation to be over. Not even 24 hours into my stay in Israel and shit was getting real.

“Haha…yeah, so we’ll have to figure that out,” Hunter politely deferred the topic, “thanks for your help.”

We walked away pondering his question and the quick escalation of the conversation. We would see the mosque the next day. After a few more turns through the remarkable city streets, we walked out of the Damascus gate, and into east Jerusalem. We found some Shwarma and cold water and enjoyed a delicious meal. A very full and exciting first day … I was ready for a nap!